The birds—not fashionistas—tweeted the day Chanel brought her guests into the serenity of the Bois de Boulogne forest.
On a Tuesday morning, dignitaries with their mystified eyes walked across tons of white sand through the Etrier de Paris equestrian center on the leafy outskirts of Paris, where lines of spinning wheels and inflatable capsules mingled with nature, fashion and art.
The dream scene was specially designed for fall-winter by artist Xavier Veilhan, who adorned Chanel’s inner circular space with a massive silver mobile. Guests – including Marion Cotillard and Keira Knightley – were greeted with mouthfuls.
Haute couture is the age-old Parisian tradition of producing expensive, made-to-measure clothing for the world’s richest women.
Here are some of the highlights from the fall-winter 2022 collections for the day:
Chanel softness
With somewhat inappropriate drumming displayed via the videotape, Chanel ambassador Pharrell Williams kicked off the proceedings with excitement before the real show got underway – to softer music and an even softer form.
Gentle colours, lines and shapes, punctuated by moments of dazzling buttons, floaty poles, and oversized hats, was the simple formula for Virginie Viard. The French designer has been in the mood for haute couture this season, letting the subtle twists speak.
A loose-fitting light green skirt suit was opened, lined with delicately shimmering crystal buttons made by world-renowned operator Stalwart. This resulted in delicate and jacquard embroidery on loose-fitting mint and sandblasted coats with oversized or often turned down collars, laden with an air of the ’80s. Meanwhile, A-line coats with a big swag, low waist, and stand-out pockets offered subtle tufts—along with fringes and fringes in contrasting patterns.
However, the best looks were the ones that kept it to a minimum. An olive green ribbed dress with a clean belt at the chest that widens from the bottom – in an elegant gown over a mermaid dress. It has cut the perfect line between sporty and elegant. There is a disturbing feeling that Viard has been playing safe, since replacing Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019.
front row
It should be Couture Week, when paparazzi slip into the sand to blast annoying motorists’ horns in tangled traffic.
Keira Knightley, 37, arrived at the Chanel runway show to cause the most stir. The actress, who has been a home ambassador for 21 years, arrived in a velvet and lace LBD by Chanel, embellished with shades, accompanied by her British musician husband James Rayton.
In a casual ensemble, consisting of a striped Chanel shirt and a black mini mini, French Academy Award-winning actress Marion Cotillard starred in a casual ensemble, declining interviews. Actresses Sigourney Weaver, Clemence Poesy and Maggie Gyllenhaal also joined in – and applauded loudly when the designer finally came out.
Alexis Maple flowers
French designer Alexis Mabille was in fall’s best for a timeless fashion collection that never forgot her whims.
Luxurious pastel silk gowns caressed the body, trembling lightly as they were shown on the dazzling indigo runway.
Flowers have never been far from the world of Mabel design – literally and figuratively.
The pastel gray silk dress had a central curved slit at the knee so that the hem rolled down in folds like an open flower. The bodice top apron is made of intricate white lace like petal veins under a microscope.
Then came flashes of whimsical fashion design – like a huge headdress made of multicolored, shimmering petals.
Men’s clothing in Paris
Front-row fashion insiders comment how Paris Menswear Week – which takes place June 21-26 – felt the same hype as couture filled with VIPs this week. This is unusual. Haute couture has traditionally outperformed menswear in terms of interest and celebrity presence. But could this be a thing of the past?
From Justin Timberlake to K-pop sensations BTS, the presence of celebrities alone for the menswear season of Spring-Summer 2023 was enough to challenge the couture design this week. This indicates higher-than-normal levels of interest in the glossy press and on the Internet.
This change of gear – or an upgrading of fashion – comes at a time when the portfolio of men’s luxury brands has outperformed women’s clothing in terms of growth overall with more and more eyeballs on the men’s runway.
Of particular note is the proliferation of American menswear brands, which are now choosing to appear across the pond in Paris to cash in on the attention. After the ill-fated New York Men’s Fashion Week – which was launched in 2016 and then canceled due to dwindling attendance – reports indicated that countless US-based homes like Tom Brown, Emery, Greg Lauren, Kid Super and Rudd have chosen View their products. Designs in the city of light.
